Monday 4 March 2013

How To Choose An Interlocking Wood Decking Tile


Interlocking wood decking tiles or patio pavers are rapidly becoming a very popular product for quickly and easily covering drab concrete patios with an attractive solid wood surface. They have the big advantage that you don't need to rip up the old concrete and can simply lay them over the top, without any special surface preparation. And the beauty of these convenient patio pavers is that you don't need to be an expert handyman and you won't need a special set of power tools to install them. They just click together like a jigsaw puzzle.

However there is now a increasing number of manufacturers offering such products, so making an informed choice between what's available is becoming more difficult. In this article, we discuss some of the main features of the tiles that you probably should consider before making a final decision on which tile would suit you best in your particular circumstances.

Wood species

This is probably one of the most important aspects in choosing a decking tile. Ideally you would choose a wood species with the highest natural durability, but there is the colour aspect to consider as well. Wood species can range tremendously in colour, from light straw through chocolate browns to deep orange red colours. But based on durability considerations alone, then one of the most durable and hard wearing species is undoubtedly Ipe wood from South America. Under this there are then a number of other wood species also from South America and a few from Southeast Asia. Rather than listing all the individual species, we suggest that you check the durability and other characteristics from an authoritative web site such as the USDA Forest Service at http://www2.fpl.fs.fed.us/Menu.ssi . Note that some species, although they may be durable in respect of climatic considerations, may still be subject to insect attack such as termites which could be an important consideration in your particular region.

Other considerations when choosing the wood species of course are whether the wood has been responsibly harvested or comes from managed forests.

Wood thickness

Most tiles on the market use wood slats which are approximately 5/8” (15mm) thick. Some manufacturers supply tiles with 3/4" thick slats and others with ½” thick slats. The product you choose to some extent depends on the location where you intend to lay the tiles. For interior situations such as basements, covered patios and other areas not subject to extreme weather conditions, then the ½” thick slats maybe entirely suitable. However in areas with more extreme climatic variation, we would suggest that the thicker wood is a better choice.

Plastic base composition

Plastic tile bases may be made of many combinations of plastic including polypropylene, polyethylene or other plastic materials. Whilst different manufacturers have their particular reason for choosing a specific plastic compound, the main considerations you should be aware of are the brittleness of the plastic, the low temperature characteristics (if you happen to live in a very cold area), and the UV stability of the plastic used. The latter point is extremely important as unless a plastic product used in exterior conditions contains a UV stabiliser, it can degrade very quickly.

Interlocking mechanism

Broadly speaking, there are only two types of interlocking mechanism used on decking tiles currently in the marketplace. Firstly there is the type that has female connectors on two sides and male connectors on the other two sides. Generally speaking, the female connectors are a series of loops which mesh with the pins on the other two sides.

The other type of locking mechanism is completely symmetrical so that any side of any tile will lock with any side of any other tile such as SwiftDeck tiles from http://www.swiftdeck.com.

The disadvantage of the loop and pin style is firstly that it requires a bit more thought in laying the tiles as you must effectively only start in one corner of the area to be covered and keep on moving from that corner. It is difficult to install or remove one of these type of tiles in a central area without disrupting at least three of the tiles around it. The other problem is that on the outer edge of final row you will have one tile with loops on the edge and the next tile with pins on the edge.

There are also tiles on the market which are effectively one way connectors. Once you click the tiles into position, you cannot easily lift them up again. Whilst this may not be a disadvantage if you have no intention of changing the tiles at any time, it does limit your options if you intend to move your home or if you wish to change the design of the deck.

The other problem with the loop and pin design is that if the manufacturer provides an option of clip-on transition strips, then you need two types of these - one which will connect with the pins, and one which will connect with the loops. And similarly if corner transition pieces are supplied as an option, then you also need two types of these as well.

Availability of different designs

Some manufacturers only supply one design of deck tile, generally with four slats of wood running in the same direction. Sometimes there is an option of a five or six slat tile. With other manufacturers you may have an option of more than one design. The advantage of this is that you can then mix and match the different designs to make attractive borders, centrepieces etc.

Optional accessories

If you are using the tiles to cover an existing concrete patio, you would probably have at least one open side. Thus on the final row tiles, you would be able to see the plastic base and the connecting pins unless they are hidden somehow. Some manufacturers therefore provide clip-on transition strips which also have the advantage of reducing the danger of shipping on the outer row of tiles. Corner transition strips are also normally available from such suppliers for the external corners.

This covers the main design and material factors that you should consider when choosing a wood decking tile / patio paver. Of course as well as the above factors you would probably also want to take into consideration the price of the tile, the warranty being offered, any trial period being offered, the after sales service, return policy etc

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Easy DIY Home Projects : How to Repair a Door Lock

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Sunday 3 March 2013

Five Common DIY Tiling Injuries: Gory, Yet Preventable


The risks of DIY tiling projects include unsatisfactory results, poor installation, and personal injury. Although freak accidents happen every day, when you bring heavy tile and sharp cutters into the mix, the odds raise. To do everything you can to prevent a tiling mishap, take every precaution and wear goggles, gloves, masks, hard-toed shoes, and other protective gear. Even so, accidents such as these five common mishaps plague the eager improver.

1. Falling wall and ceiling tiles lead to serious injury during the installation process and long afterwards, such as in this New Jersey Church. Moisture behind the wall, improper installation, and blunt force against the tiles can cause them to loosen and fall, and depending on the distance and force of impact, has been blamed for concussions, bruises, broken bones, and even death. The best way to prevent falling tile accidents is to replace them when they start chipping or cracking, before they start falling out on their own. During the installation process, make sure that every tile is securely glued to the wall or ceiling before moving on to another row.

2. If not properly secured or balanced, many people fall of ladders. If your tiling project requires some height, make sure to keep one hand on the ladder at all times and remember, the higher the ladder and harder the ground, the more serious the injury. Ladders cause the most DIY deaths and the number of ladder injuries rise each year. Thankfully, this man survived, but his mishap demonstrates the need for sturdy ladders and trustworthy spotters.

3. Sharp tools, such as tile cutters and power saws, are difficult to use without proper training. The sharp blades can cause lacerations, deep, open wounds, and even amputation of fingers. Also, when you cut tile, pieces can fly off and imbed in your skin, or worse, in your eye, if you don’t wear protective goggles.

4. Permanent damage to your arm, back, and rotator cuff is common after lifting heavy tile and bending over during an installation project. Use a cart or dolly to carry especially heavy pieces of tile made of stone, marble, or granite. Lift slowly and smoothly and ask for help if necessary. Sometimes years of rehab result from these injuries in which the victim never regains full range of motion.

5. Toxins in the home release during the tiling process if the room is not ventilated properly. Lead, asbestos, smoke, fumes, and adhesives can cause headaches, skin rashes, and nausea. More seriously, they can lead to asthma, cancer, nerve damage, and allergies. Before you start a tiling or any home renovation project, identify the hazards and seal off the ventilated workspace from the rest of the home. Practice safe work methods to minimize dust and fumes and effectively clean your workspace at the end of each day. Take heed of this British family’s warnings after their loved one died following exposure to tile asbestos.

The good news is that these injuries are 100 percent preventable. Always wear protective gear and close-fitting clothing when working in your home. Make sure you know how to operate each tool correctly and be realistic about your skills. Professional consultations never hurt, and if you need to hire the pro, feel no shame.

Learning to install tile safely is easy, if you go to Denver Tile Installation's website and click through to the blog.

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Using Remodeling Contractors for Loft Conversion is Best when Building More Home Space



Do you have high ceilings in your home that you feel are no more than an empty and wasted space? If so, you may be losing out on your home’s real potential. Through loft conversion, you can transform your unused wasted empty ceiling space or attic space into a functional loft room or living area. You may be dissuaded by the mere thought of the inconvenience and cost that comes with the construction, but it comes with a number potential benefits that may just convince you to seriously reconsider.

From Wasted Space to Loft Conversion Extra Living Space

The typical vaulted ceiling or enclosed attic space can amount to almost 30% of the total potential space of a home. Unfortunately, this portion is usually left unused and wasted. By building a loft conversion instead of an extension or room addition, you can get an additional room without taking away space from your garden or lot area.

Also, as opposed to constructing extensions or basements, building a loft gives you maximum use of your home with lesser disruption to the existing structure.

Remodeling Contractors are the Cheaper Alternative

It’s always cheaper to build than to buy, right? As the prices of property continue to increase steadily, more homeowners are turning to loft conversion to address their need for more living space. After all, you already have the space there, right? It’s just waiting to be developed and used.

Creating a loft also tends to cost less because instead of adding to the house, you will be working within its existing dimensions and foundation.

Some homeowners have taken the do-it-yourself approach to building their lofts, but most find the process quite complicated and involving a large amount of work. Because of this, most people turn to remodeling contractors to do the task.

Build What You Need

The attic space offers a versatile area from which various types of accommodation can be built. Most homeowners want living additional living space, such as a bedroom, children’s playroom, or even an entertainment area. Others prefer to make it an office space. There are also those who just want more storage area.

It may entail a lot of effort, but building a room addition loft conversion can be a fun and rewarding experience if you decide to give a personalized take to the room being created. Think about how you would want the room to look. Decide on details like the color palette, space layout, furnishings and other design elements. Always remember that during this whole process, you are the boss.

Increase your Home’s Value

More space means more money. It is generally believed that having a loft constructed in your home will add a substantial amount of value to your property. The exact figures are hard to determine, but on the average, it is said that a professional loft conversion can increase the potential price of a house to approximately 20%.

Because of these benefits, constructing lofts has gained popularity among many homeowners over the past years. If you decide to have a loft built for your home, it is advisable to seek the services of remodeling contractors to ensure a smooth loft conversion that is carried out to your standards.

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The DIY Essential Handyman's Toolset | Home Improvement Tips

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Saturday 2 March 2013

Do-It-Yourself Bathroom Tile Repairs

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Friday 1 March 2013

How to Design an Electrical Panel Board

When you are constructing a house or redesigning your home and have to design the electric panel board there are many things that you have to take into consideration. The function of the main electrical panel is to distribute electric power to the various appliances in the house. This distribution is done with the aid of electrical circuits that emerge from the panel. As a general guideline it's best to keep these few materials handy before designing the panel.
Materials Needed:

* Multimeter (to measure voltage)
* Electrical fuses
* House Blueprints
* Rubber gloves (for protection)

Step 1-Understanding Components

Electric panels can be customized and configured to meet the power requirement of the household. This is why there are different dimensions. Before designing an electrical panel board, it is good to know its components. The main panel distributes electricity to the household through branch circuits. These then go to the switches, appliances and other receptacles throughout your home.


Step 2-Understanding the Circuits

Two copper aluminum strips under the circuit breakers and the wiring panel are the power buses or hot buses that are connected to the incoming cable. Both the neutral and the wires for grounding are connected to their respective buses. These are present on either side of the power buses. The main breaker which controls all the power in the house is located on the upper part of the electric panel.


Step 3-Considering Power Requirements

An electric panel in a house provides 100 or 150 or 200 amps. The individual circuits are then distributed from the main breaker by individual breakers which branches the power throughout the home. These individual breakers are designed depending upon the requirement of power. A light outlet circuit would need 15 amps and other appliances that need more power would usually be 60 to100 amps.


Step 4-Designing the Panel

When you are creating the design for your electric panel the following details should be incorporated into it.

* Location and dimension of the panel
* Load description, Amperage, Voltage required
* Phase and NEMA type
* Horsepower, cable size and conduit size
* Indication of the home run circuitry with a designated number
* Number of wires a conduit carries
* Type of insulation

Step 5- Combining Location and Design

If the panel is to be placed in an environment that you consider could be polluted, design it to keep contaminants out by applying positive air pressure. If it is to be placed in a dark area, design it to have an internal panel light mounted on it. On the other hand, design the panel to have a drain hose at the bottom of its enclosure if it is going to be installed in a place where water or other liquids may enter its enclosure.

While it is wise to take into account all the power needs of the house, it would be wiser to future proof your home when designing an electric panel. With advances being made in technology and electric power being the source that runs many appliances, you must design the panel to take care of the future power needs of your home.

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Why Aren�t People Flocking to Solar Energy Generation?


The world is awakening to the realization that electricity is going to become increasingly expensive as our utility companies move from fossil based fuels to sustainable sources of electricity generation.

There is a wide range of sustainable electricity generating methods – from nuclear to wind, to solar, to ocean or water motion, plus many others.

Did you know that very little of the worlds energy demands are being satisfied by solar technology? Globally electricity produced by solar energy accounts for less than 0.01% of total energy demand. And yet the demand for sustainable electricity generation is growing at almost 25% per annum over the last ten years.

Compare that to fossil fuel energy demand which is only growing at 0-2% per annum.

So why aren’t people flocking to solar energy generation?

We think they are.

The biggest inhibitor to mounting those solar panels on your roof is in fact the cost to do so. Or more importantly - the payback period. If you can’t recover the cost of installing solar panels within the first 12 – 18 months or less then we think you should consider building your own solar panels. You will certainly save money and shorten the payback period.

The decision path is a simple five step process.

First Step: How much energy do you need????

Get out your recent electricity bills. We suggest you do this for the last 2 – 3 years to even out any variations in demand.

Set out a table of your electricity usage for each month by recording the kilowatt hours (kwh) usage in each month. If you have separate hot water metering record this as well.

How much electricity did you use each year? What was the maximum amount used in each year? What was the percentage increase each year?

If you decide to install solar energy the amount of electricity you need is the amount you used in the heaviest use month of the current year. Then increase this by the average increase over the last two years. This is the maximum you will need.

Second Step: Where / how is your electricity being consumed????

In order to work out your solar electricity requirements you need to understand where this energy is being consumed. Count how many appliances you have on constantly, how many watts they use when operating and add extra for using items you don't use constantly.

Look at the labels on your appliances. This will help you understand where your usage is going and why? It will also identify areas or appliances where you can make savings by better use of the appliances.

On your appliance you will see the number of watts that each appliance uses. A washing machine creating its own hot water for example might 2000 watts. This is 2 kilowatts per hour.

To calculate the cost of electricity for this appliance multiply the number of kilowatts by the price of one kwh from your electricity bill.

It is also very useful if there are two modes of operation of an appliance to record both – ie a washing machine heating its own water and when cold water is used, or air conditioning set to heating mode and also to cooling.

Third Step: Think about where you can save electricity!

We suggest the sensible approach is to identify areas where energy savings might be made AND test your savings are realistic, practical and can be sustained over a period.

For example, your television. If you turn it off with the remote it is still using around 20 watts. Even though you're not using it your TV is actually wasting energy.

And, your computer. The computer and monitor use around 180 watts when they are on. Computers are certified by Energy Saver, which means they require the same energy to be turned on as during their regular use. So, if you're not using it your computer turn it off).

Fourth Step: Buying your solar panel technology!

We are strongly of the view that building your own solar panels is a very cost effective solution.

The starting point for either buying solar panels or making your own is how much electricity do you need and therefore, how many panels you will need.

If you have followed through this article, you will have a pretty good idea how many kwh you are likely to need.

Solar panels are rated from 1 watt to 300+ watts. Most solar panels up to 135 watts are 12 volts direct current (12vdc). Most solar panels over 135 watts are 21 to 40 vdc.

The watt rating is the amount of power (amps x volts) the panel will produce in full sunlight at 77 degrees F or 25 degrees C. This is the industry standard for all photovoltaic panel ratings. However, it is the "best case" scenario.

In most locations there are about 4 hours of peak sunlight per day when your solar panel will be operating at peak efficiency. But your panels will operate 24 hours per day using all forms of light including the stars, street lights, and heavy cloud conditions. As a year round average we reduce the performance of a solar panel by 10-15% of its maximum wattage rating.

The real number you are interested in is the watts per dollar you are paying. By building your own solar panels you can get the price per panel down to $200 – 300. You don’t need to be technically inclined and the information packages now available are brilliant.

You can build a 120 watt solar panel yourself for say $240.00. That's $ 0.50 per watt of power.

Being practical you need to reduce the 120 watts by say 15% to 102 watts. That's $0.42per watt.

If you buy a 120 watt solar panel from the Internet you will pay something like $1,100 for a ready to install unit. That's $9.30 per watt when you reduce the efficiency by 15%.

If we use the house to the right as an example six solar panels producing 720 Watts of power per second (during peak sunlight times) would cost about $6600 and would be more than enough for their power supply.

There are about 4 hours of peak sunlight per day, but don't let that fool you. Solar panels still continue working even at night soaking up minute amounts of energy from starlight (or if you're in the city from the constant glow of street lights), even in the winter, whenever. (There is a lot of people out there who believe that solar panels cease working completely at night.)

Fifth Step : How much solar energy do I need?

The sun’s energy varies from place to place across the globe and is very dependent on weather conditions. We can expect to generate 1.2KW/m2 per hour or 4095 BTU of electricity in full midday sunlight. (1 kWh = 3412.3 BTU)

Let’s say your roof surface area sloping towards the south in the northern hemisphere and towards the north in the southern hemisphere, is 500 sq ft or 48m2. Typically the solar energy available over one year on one square meter of roof is 1500KWH.

So, using the figures above we could expect to generate 48 x 1500 = 72,000 kwh or 245,566,000 BTU. That’s 197kwh per day on average If, like us you use an average 30 kwh per day total electricity consumption you would need 75 sq ft or 7.5m2 of solar panel.

So there you have it. We have done the homework on solar panels. Check out our free newsletter at http://www.ubuildsolarpanel.com

And thank you for reading our article.

Please feel free to use it but we would ask you to acknowledge our website at http://www.ubuildsolarpanel.com

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Home Improvement & Repair on Video : How to Install or Repair a Towel Rack

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